When we lived on Tenerife, I spent far too much time trying to counter the nonsense written online about the weather on Tenerife, specifically the north. One of the best (daftest) things I heard was on a bus, when an English expat explained to a visitor that it was never sunny in the north as the Sun didn’t rise above Mount Teide. This statement revealed so many things she didn’t know about the island despite living there. Apart from the obvious, she clearly didn’t have a clue where the sun rose or set. Just because someone lives in a place for a long time never assume that means they know anything about it. I gave up trying to counter uninformed guff for a number of reasons, so I don’t intend ever going back to those pointless debates.
But…
…it was interesting to return to Tenerife as a visitor, even on a work trip, with refreshed eyes. We chose January as it can often be more settled than February when the change of seasons can play havoc with the weather. By all accounts, it’s not been the best winter on Tenerife, and we experienced a mix of warm and sunny as well as cool and wet days in both south and north of the island. What’s interesting is how different the vibe can be when it is cold and damp depending on where you are on Tenerife.
Playa de la Arena on a sunny Sunday.
A cold, wet day in the south
When we arrived in Playa San Juan in the south west, it was a hot and sunny weekend. The towns and resorts along the south west coast were rammed with people, many of them having travelled from other parts of the island for the weekend. We walked from Playa San Juan to Playa de la Arena and back and there was an infectiously lively and fun atmosphere.
A couple of days later, the weekenders had returned home and the weather had turned. It was cool and windy with rainy spells. The impact of this was noticeable. The town felt quiet, with few people around (an interesting observation in itself given the numerous reports of overtourism on Tenerife). Some visitors sat on benches on the promenade looking bereft, staring over the beach and out to sea as if scanning the horizon for the return of the sun, unsure of what to do with themselves. The whole vibe was different.
A cool, quiet day in Playa San Juan.
Whenever friends or family were planning a visit to Tenerife at times of year when the weather was more predictable, we’d always recommend the south west as being most dependable for sunshine without wind. But even the south west can experience days when the weather isn’t great. I know people feel cheated when this happens, but…
A cold, wet day in the north
Shortly after we moved to Tenerife, I moaned about it being a rainy day to a barman in La Frigata bar in Puerto de la Cruz. He simply shrugged, no doubt bored with hearing similar remarks over the years, and replied, ‘It has to rain sometime, otherwise there would be no crops.’ It put me in my place and taught me an early lesson I’ve never forgotten. Perpetual sunshine is only good for holidaymakers seeking sunny destinations, not for living and working in. The land needs rain.
Drive along the north west coast.
We switched from the south to the north on a sunny afternoon, the north coast looking resplendent as we drove the Anillo Insular. By nightfall, a weather front drifted across the whole archipelago, bringing heavy rain to the islands. It was dangerous weather for heading into the hills, so we took the opportunity to spend some time in Puerto de la Cruz, updating our town guide. While we were strolling through the Ranilla district, the heavens opened. It monsooned it down. Restaurant owners extended awnings, which everyone on the street, us included, took shelter under. Nobody was turfed out because they weren’t a customer. Quite the opposite, restaurant staff did their best to make sure everyone was safely under cover. Instead of doom and gloom, there was laughter and a sense of camaraderie. Nearby, fisherman sat on the ground inside the entrance to a garage, carrying on with their game of cards in a drier spot. It was torrential rain, but local people simply carried on with whatever they were doing. The weather is the weather. Sometimes it rains, but it doesn’t stop play … or work. Perversely, it was enjoyable. There was a sense of togetherness between visitors and residents that reminded us why we liked living in Puerto so much – Tenerife amable. It was a relief to see that this hadn’t changed.
Sheltering from the rain in Puerto de la Cruz.
There are some things far more valuable than perpetual sunshine … unless you’re on a sun-seeking holiday hoping to escape the gloom of a northern European winter.
